Turkey - A Turkish Delight in the Form of Kas

I'll begin by saying that flying into Turkey was a little sketchy. Sunexpress was the airline and yes - although I have flown on some less than stellar, but cheap airlines - this one was the sketchiest. After a nerve wracking three hour flight, we landed in Antalya, Turkey. Being a dual citizen someone wisely advised me to travel in and out of Turkey on my Swedish passport. However, my Swedish passport needed a renewal so I was forced to use my American one instead. This made going through customs and immigration an immediate problem, as I had not previously applied for a visa to visit the country. I was sent to the visa window where I was asked for 15 euros to pay for my 90 day visa. Ill-prepared, I had not brought any cash with me on the plane. Thus, I was forced to hand over my debit card to a very suspect airport employee; who did not speak English. After charging my visa card, I was allowed to pass through customs and enter the country while the visa processor loudly berated me with some very nasty words in Turkish.

Customs at Antalya ... with the blinds shut

My initial welcome to Turkey … not so pleasant. However, my next experience was far more enjoyable — meeting Murat. I refer to him as my unofficial Turkish guide. Working during the winter as an anaesthesiologist in Zurich, Switzerland; and a diving instructor in Turkey during the summer; he had much to say about Turkish culture. As my friend, Renato, slept the entire four hour ride from Antalya to Kaş, I was treated to a thoroughly entertaining narrated tour of my newest travel destination. Murat not only enlightened me about Turkish history, he fed me a buffet of words about Turkish culinary favorites. While I appreciated my guide’s stories and language, I was disappointed we didn't arrive during the day so I could see how beautiful the country actually was during our harrowing taxi ride through the Turkish mountains. We finally arrived in Kaş, a town located on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. At one in the morning, with the sandman calling my name, I could still hear the nightlife pumping down in the valley.  As tempted as I was, I had to catch some z`s and save the fun for Saturday morning.

The morning was spectacular to say the least. As I walked out onto the balcony of the apartment, it was amazing to see a view, virgin to my eyes.

Balcony view of the town

My first thought was, this is Turkey? My second thought was the Mediterranean is a paradise! Kaş is a delightful town located in the furthest southwestern point of the country. This town offers something unmatched by most tourist destinations — not a lot of tourists! Kaş’ population fluctuates between 7-10,000 during the tourist season. Sound like a boring, of the beaten path, vacation spot? Not if you are like me and want to experience an authentic taste of Turkey during your vacation. I didn’t want to just sit by the pool and talk to people from popular Mediterranean vacation seeking countries like Sweden, Germany, and Switzerland who are desperate to thaw out with cheap liquor and lots of sun. I wanted to meet Turkish people and experience Turkish culture. This pleasant town is exactly what I hoped for.

One of the alleys at night 

As I descended a very steep road to the town center, I was surrounded by enticing shops and restaurants, showcasing their offerings in a very street market fashion, quite unlike the pretty and "proper" marketed displays of the western world. Little, hole-in-the-wall boutiques with products outside in boxes; or dive shops with nothing more than posters outside, trying to lure customers in.

Main street at night

Restaurants were a different story. Many made to accommodate tourists, the food menus were very diverse, offering many choices. For my first Turkish meal, we headed to Jimmy Jokers for some lunch. As I scanned the menu, I noted that, like the restaurant’s name, it was very Americanized, not as Turkish as I had hoped. I asked the waitress to recommend a common Turkish dish from the menu.  She selected the chicken casserole. Chicken casserole it is, I replied! Served in a hot cast iron baking dish; chicken, onions, bell-peppers, tomatoes, and cheese on top; still boiling in its own broth. I was quite pleased with what I saw and smelled; and, fortunately, planned for a leisurely lunch. You can’t be in a hurry to eat this because it is scalding hot. Although it was much blander than I imagined Turkish food tasting; it did the job. All in all, it was a good meal. 

Afterwards we headed towards the open sea for some world class diving. Other than my certification, this was my first time diving, so I was pretty excited. I was not able to dive with my friends due to their advanced level, so I was paired with Hakan. Hakan works for Lykia diving as an instructor and guide, so he gave me a little refresher course. Then we sped out along the coastline. The dive was incredible. The marine life (fish, eels, crustaceans) and sea bottom (sand, coral, and sponges) were spectacular. There were ship wrecks, crashed WWII airplanes, caves, you name it. Diving with Lykia is definitely recommended; just make sure to get your certificate before you go. And, do some prior research online, so you can at least pretend like you know what you are doing. Of course, you always have the option of getting your certification through Lykia, which is, also, highly recommended. 

Preparing to dive

Diving was a great escape from the treacherous sun, which between 12-3 pm is at its hottest point and temperatures reach the low 40's Celsius. You may prefer to stay in the water or go indoors if it is air conditioned. The heat can really take a toll on your body. For those willing to risk the exposure, there are places with cabanas and sun chairs with parasols. At Dyria Beach, for example, 20 Turkish lira (the equivalent of 10 USD) will rent you sun chairs and a parasol for the day. Just a quick 50 meters away you have the wide open Mediterranean.

Dyria Beach

The water this time of year was incredibly warm and you will not mind swimming for long periods of time; if you enjoy the water, like this San Diegan. For those less eager to look like a lobster, a nap can be very refreshing before heading out for the evening. I have to warn you, the temperature does not cool down that much. Even at two o’clock in the morning it can be a staggering 25-35 degrees Celsius. So after a long day of swimming and sun, a few z’s can really make a difference. 

Across from Dyria Beach,
and hotel buildings up top

I recommend starting the evening off with a few light cocktails and a nice dinner. The restaurant Voyn would be a good choice. The ambiance was stereotypical Mediterranean. A slight step up to the dining area lit only with ambient light; lightly surrounded by trees and bushes. As for the food, it was delicious. The garlic bread appetizer is unmatched. Followed by some lamb kebabs served with fresh vegetables and fried potato wedges. It may sound like a fast food option, but it was delicious; and, the service laudable. If you are looking for more sophistication, Ikbal would be the place. You really feel like you are in a Mediterranean bistro. Same kind of style dining area, ambient light, and lightly surrounded by vegetation, but this place is higher end so you will need to dress accordingly. One bite of the prawn appetizer in a garlic herb sauce was enough to know the place had great food. And, when they say fresh in Turkey they really mean fresh. The veal steak — butchered daily; paired with the house white wine — the perfect combination before an evening of nocturnal activities. 

Dining area inside Ikbal

If you are looking for a good time there are many places to choose from in Kaş. Rhythm and Beer became one of my choice spots. This place offers live music six days a week. On this Saturday night, a band in my favorit genre was up, a spectacular, authentic reggae band. The sound of them playing their unique brand of music was an immediate attraction for this . After listening to a few songs from the street, I decided to go in and relax properly with a drink. Unfortunately, the band took a break as soon as we walked in. But, like most establishments in Kaş the staff was friendly and welcoming. They knew exactly how to accommodate the laid back crowd and the wait was worth it! The songs were as diverse as the drinks — it was everything from Bob Marley to the Beatles, Vodka/Red Bulls to Tuborgs. As we drank and relaxed, the time got late and we left somewhere around midnight in order to catch some club action at Red Point. This place was for younger tourists as blue disco lights, house music, and happy sun seekers from all over the world enjoyed some dancing and drinking. Definitely the place if you are in your 20's looking for a nice club atmosphere. However, keep in mind this is not a big city. So if you are looking for a club similar to what you would find in LA or Ibiza, you will not find that in Kaş. But remember, when in Rome do as the Romans. A little chit-chat here; a little chit-chat there; with people from all over — Britain, Denmark, even the small town I lived in; in Sweden (Västerås). Alas, it was time to call it a night and say "Iyi geceler" to a sensational day in one of Turkey’s hidden gems, Kaş. 

Sunset by apartment 

Special thanks to the Engler family, for making this dream come true!

Davos, Switzerland - It's going to be like pff ... I mean like schhh ... it's Davos!

Davos, Switzerland, a small town, famous for its annual World Finance Summit and Swiss Alps is unmatched by any ski town I have ever visited, with a little unexpected extra.  That extra is an exemplary hockey culture.

When my humble Swiss companion Renato, explained to me that Davos is going to be crazy, I thought to myself, "hmm ... crazy. Well, I've been to Vegas, Malta, LA, and München and they were pretty crazy, so we'll see". In response he said, "You don't understand, man". I guess this one will have to be judged by experience as well. 

Davos turns into something totally different when winter and the tourist season rolls in. Being an elite hockey player and knowing other elite hockey players in the town is, also, obviously a plus in this place as well. 

So, to start off the evening we enjoy some nice winter entertainment in the form of a HC Davos hockey game. The place is sold out, 7,000 fans. May not seem like a lot, but trust me in this “barn” (arena) it is more than rowdy enough. Not to mention, there is a lockout in the NHL so we get to see stars like, Joe Thornton, Henrik Zetterberg, Louie Eriksson, and Linus Omark. The game is exhilarating, Swiss hockey is fast and physical, also lucky for us the home team wins, making things in town even more festive the rest of the evening. 

One of few photos we were able to take in the craziness.
Valliant Arena, Davos, CH

We start with postgame drinks and colloquy with some Swiss hockey legends at the arena VIP lounge considering Renato himself is a legend from his junior time with the club. A few bottles of wine and countless beers put us in the right state to move on.

After leaving the hockey arena, we ascend up the road to the main street, Talstrasse where we seek out Ex Bar. When you enter the place you think that it’s a cross between a country bar and a sports bar. Everything is made out of old wood and, literally, covered in sports memorabilia from floor to ceiling. There are scarves, pictures, posters, trophies, banners and flags—you name it, it’s everywhere. One of the oldest bars in Davos, it is the local favorite for athletes, which means its common to see sports stars that play for Davos or have played, such as Rick Nash. The drinks at the bar thaw the winter chill and the food is simple but spectacular in flavor. But what really makes this place a great bar; is the service and friendliness of the staff. They keep this place running smooth and enjoyable. 

Caprizzi 

With a light buzz, two girls by our sides and a 300 meter walk down an icy street, we arrive at Caprizzi at about one am. This is the in place to be, during the high season, if you’re looking for an after ski club. The line? Not too long - about a cigarette’s wait. However, tonight we were lucky. Usually, the wait at this place can be treacherous, especially in the middle of winter. Fortunately, we had winter weather on our side and not too many people made the walk. Caprizzi is an upscale club with a dope dance-floor, loud music, and quick/witty bartenders. The atmosphere is incredibly festive in a way that only the Swiss and those tourists savvy enough to ski in Davos can make it. 

Feeling no pain at three am, we head back to Ex Bar once again to gather some energy and snacks. I cannot emphasize enough how great the service is here. Chicken nuggets on the house, and mind you these are not McDonald’s chicken nuggets, they are delicious especially after drinking all night. After the quick pit-stop and an incident involving somebody jumping in front of a snowplow on the street outside “wink-wink”, we head to Ella finishing up the night. 

Ex Bar 

When I look at my timepiece and realize it says, 5:45 am, I ask Renato, "When do these places close?” I get an unexpected answer in the form of a question, "Close? Davos is alive all night”.  As I start to absorb the true meaning behind my friend’s initial warnings, he hands me another "Stange" as they call beer in Switzerland. Note, although German is spoken in Switzerland, do not order a "Stange" in other German speaking countries, as it means something completely different. 

Ella is a calm place and great for unwinding after a night of Renato’s infamous “Davos craziness”. We sit and just lounge for a bit. Where the Ex Bar was generous with their food, Ella is generous with the percentiles in the glass.

Finally, Casey a friend of Renato's and me, "kindly invite" the DJ to take a break so we can take over for a bit (considering his music sense was slightly off for the hour of night/morning we found ourselves in). Sunrise at 8:35 am said it was time for us to take a break. We stumble out into the light and make our way back to the hotel, in good company with many late night goers. 

I'm asked from Renato the following afternoon, “Is this what you expected?” All I can honestly reply with is, "I don't usually get hangovers, unless the bar lets you go "ham" for 20 hours straight!” Renato replies through his chuckles, "Welcome to Davos".

Switzerland - Welcome to Switzerland!

Peering out the airplane window, all I could see were snow capped mountains, peppered with houses lit up in the snow. Zürich was approaching in the distance and now you could make out something resembling a city. Though it had been a warm winter, snow had been falling heavily for the past week in this cold and snowy alpine destination. Perfect for the avid ski enthusiast. 

I wait at the airport for my Swiss friend named Renato Engler. He looks like a cross between an Italian guido and a pizza maker. He shows up in a familiar Swedish Volvo with chew seeping over his teeth, and greets me with "welcome you schmelt". Also known as "rookie bitch" in the hockey world. I gladly get in the car with my hockey bag, suitcase, and an exciting feeling of what this beautiful country has to offer me on my visit. 

Driving past cascading hillsides and through famous Swiss built tunnels, we make our way from the biggest city in the country to the small town of Grabs. Leaving Zürich was unremarkable. The countryside surrounding lake Wallensee is scenic but small. However, once we passed through the lat of maybe eight tunnels, and jetted out the other side it was a whole different story. Beautiful tall mountains surround you as you drive through a valley between peak after peak. They grow taller and taller the further east you travel. As we finally reach our destination the view is spectacular! The site of this modern, white, magnificently built home was gorgeous. The mountains create an embrace around you as I think to myself—this is their everyday home. I am welcomed with a glass of Ciprian - Pinot Noir from the family vineyard, as formalities are broken and as begins a new, beautiful friendship. 

Waking up early has never been my forté, but the thought skiing in the Swiss Alps make it a breeze. A 06:30 am beer, chew, video, and photo-shoot probably helped the cause as well. Not to leave out the train-ride along the road of 360 turns, unforgettable! It was time for the gondola ride, where we slammed another beer just for the hell of it and then it was hello Arosa! 

My second time skiing in the Alps, but first time in Switzerland. A great white bowl of endless mountain is what lied beneath as we are hurdled down a steep 500 meter slope to start things off right. After that the fun began as we set out to discover this virtually untouched mountain. Hours seem like minutes, and as burnt energy was turning it into lactic acid a few of Renato's friends were getting ready for a ski competition on the far side of the hill. We stopped at the finish line to watch, grab a beer, and some lunch. After a meet and greet over beers, at 10 am, we decided it was time to hit the slopes once again. 

Unfortunately the afternoon brought poor visibility and we were forced to cut the day short. Returning to Grabs for some delicious cheese fondue with some sensational wine, is not the worst thing one can do after an awesome day of skiing. Then like a rabbit out of the hat, it was a quick shower, change, and off to El Capitàn, Austria. Just a test drive before we unleash our full horsepower on Davos the upcoming weekend. 

http://www.arosa.ch/sites/winter/skiing_and_snowboarding.html

http://www.myswitzerland.com/en-CH/infra.cfm?rkey=713

Email with any questions?

Local Seafood, San Diego - Harbor Fish Café

With all the California hype focused on LA, it is easy to overlook the other gems that Cali has to offer. San Diego is the perfect spot if you’re looking to experience the California lifestyle at its greatest. Before travelling it’s always smart to scout out some local culinary specialties. San Diego definitely has enough to cover several trips, but I would like to recommend a local childhood favorite of mine called, Harbor Fish Café.

Located literally right off the beach between Oak Ave and Pine Ave in Carlsbad, Harbor Fish (as the locals call it) has served great seafood for decades, any native can testify to that. Harbor Fish is famous for its $12 fish and chips, which coming from this 6’4” 230 lbs guy, trust me, will fill you up. You can never go wrong ordering the fish and chips at Harbor Fish, but another favorite of mine is their thick, creamy and very flavorful clam chowder! The clam chowder is easily a winner amongst many. Just one spoonful and you’ll understand why.

Putting it mildly, my sister always despised seafood. To this day she professes nothing but revulsion for it. This led my parents to buy her Harbor Fish’s fried clams. My sister and I grew up on these clams and they are still the only seafood she will eat. Not pricy at all considering they are on the appetizer menu, they deliver great taste and bang for your buck. After a long morning at the beach I love to take a stroll over to the restaurant and order myself some fried clams. Succulent, chewy clams; battered up and fried; served with tartar sauce and cocktail sauce. Sample the sauces separately or combine them for an unbelievable dipping sauce.

To sum things up, Harbor Fish is one of the best of the best for seafood in San Diego. Come in any attire to this beachfront restaurant—no shoes, no shirt required but be considerate and at least remember your board-shorts. The ambiance is true California. Whether you come to enjoy the beaches, golf courses, or a So-Cal escape in the form of San Diego, Harbor Fish Café is a must for a relaxed meal during your trip to America’s finest city.











3179 Carlsbad Blvd
Carlsbad, CA 92008
(760) 729-4161