I'll begin by saying
that flying into Turkey was a little sketchy. Sunexpress was the airline and yes - although I have flown on some less than stellar, but cheap airlines - this
one was the sketchiest. After a nerve wracking three hour flight, we landed in
Antalya, Turkey. Being a dual citizen someone wisely advised me to travel in
and out of Turkey on my Swedish passport. However, my Swedish passport needed a renewal so I was forced to use my American one instead. This made going
through customs and immigration an immediate problem, as I had not previously
applied for a visa to visit the country. I was sent to the visa window where I
was asked for 15 euros to pay for my 90 day visa. Ill-prepared, I had not
brought any cash with me on the plane. Thus, I was forced to hand over
my debit card to a very suspect airport employee; who did not speak
English. After charging my visa card, I was allowed to pass through customs and
enter the country while the visa processor loudly berated me with some very
nasty words in Turkish.
 |
| Customs at Antalya ... with the blinds shut |
My initial welcome
to Turkey … not so pleasant. However, my next experience was far more enjoyable
— meeting Murat. I refer to him as my unofficial Turkish guide. Working during
the winter as an anaesthesiologist in Zurich, Switzerland; and a diving
instructor in Turkey during the summer; he had much to say about Turkish
culture. As my friend, Renato, slept the entire four hour ride from Antalya to Kaş,
I was treated to a thoroughly entertaining narrated tour of my newest travel
destination. Murat not only enlightened me about Turkish
history, he fed me a buffet of words about Turkish culinary favorites. While
I appreciated my guide’s stories and language, I was disappointed we didn't
arrive during the day so I could see how beautiful the country actually was during our harrowing taxi ride through the Turkish mountains. We finally
arrived in Kaş, a town located on a hillside overlooking the Mediterranean
Sea. At one in the morning, with the sandman calling my name, I could
still hear the nightlife pumping down in the valley. As tempted as I was,
I had to catch some z`s and save the fun for Saturday morning.
The morning was
spectacular to say the least. As I walked out onto the balcony of the
apartment, it was amazing to see a view, virgin to my eyes.
 |
| Balcony view of the town |
My first thought
was, this is Turkey? My second thought was the Mediterranean is a paradise! Kaş
is a delightful town located in the furthest southwestern point of the country.
This town offers something unmatched by most tourist destinations — not a lot
of tourists! Kaş’ population fluctuates between 7-10,000 during the tourist season.
Sound like a boring, of the beaten path, vacation spot? Not if you are like me
and want to experience an authentic taste of Turkey during your vacation. I
didn’t want to just sit by the pool and talk to people from popular
Mediterranean vacation seeking countries like Sweden, Germany, and Switzerland
who are desperate to thaw out with cheap liquor and lots of sun. I wanted to
meet Turkish people and experience Turkish culture. This pleasant town is
exactly what I hoped for.
 |
| One of the alleys at night |
As I descended a
very steep road to the town center, I was surrounded by enticing shops and
restaurants, showcasing their offerings in a very street market fashion, quite
unlike the pretty and "proper" marketed displays of the western
world. Little, hole-in-the-wall boutiques with products outside in boxes; or
dive shops with nothing more than posters outside, trying to lure customers in.
 |
| Main street at night |
Restaurants were a
different story. Many made to accommodate tourists,
the food menus were very diverse, offering many choices. For my first Turkish
meal, we headed to Jimmy Jokers for some lunch. As I scanned the menu, I noted
that, like the restaurant’s name, it was very Americanized, not as Turkish as I had hoped. I asked the
waitress to recommend a common Turkish dish from the menu. She selected
the chicken casserole. Chicken casserole it is, I replied! Served in a hot cast
iron baking dish; chicken, onions, bell-peppers, tomatoes, and cheese on top;
still boiling in its own broth. I was quite pleased with what I saw and
smelled; and, fortunately, planned for a leisurely lunch. You can’t be in a
hurry to eat this because it is scalding hot. Although it was much blander than
I imagined Turkish food tasting; it did the job. All in all, it was a good
meal.
Afterwards we headed
towards the open sea for some world class diving. Other than my certification,
this was my first time diving, so I was pretty excited. I was not able to dive
with my friends due to their advanced level, so I was paired with Hakan. Hakan
works for Lykia diving as an instructor and guide, so he gave me a little
refresher course. Then we sped out along the coastline. The dive was
incredible. The marine life (fish, eels, crustaceans) and sea bottom (sand,
coral, and sponges) were spectacular. There were ship wrecks, crashed
WWII airplanes, caves, you name it. Diving with Lykia is definitely
recommended; just make sure to get your certificate before you go. And, do some
prior research online, so you can at least pretend like you know what you are
doing. Of course, you always have the option of getting your certification
through Lykia, which is, also, highly recommended.
 |
| Preparing to dive |
Diving was a great
escape from the treacherous sun, which between 12-3 pm is at its hottest point
and temperatures reach the low 40's Celsius. You may prefer to stay in the
water or go indoors if it is air conditioned. The heat can really take a toll
on your body. For those willing to risk the exposure, there are places with
cabanas and sun chairs with parasols. At Dyria Beach, for example, 20 Turkish
lira (the equivalent of 10 USD) will rent you sun chairs and a parasol for the
day. Just a quick 50 meters away you have the wide open Mediterranean.
 |
| Dyria Beach |
The
water this time of year was incredibly warm and you will not mind swimming for
long periods of time; if you enjoy the water, like this San Diegan. For those
less eager to look like a lobster, a nap can be very refreshing before heading
out for the evening. I have to warn you, the temperature does not cool down
that much. Even at two o’clock in the morning it can be a staggering 25-35
degrees Celsius. So after a long day of swimming and sun, a few z’s can really
make a difference.
 |
Across from Dyria Beach,
and hotel buildings up top |
I recommend starting
the evening off with a few light cocktails and a nice dinner. The restaurant
Voyn would be a good choice. The ambiance was stereotypical Mediterranean. A
slight step up to the dining area lit only with ambient light; lightly
surrounded by trees and bushes. As for the food, it was delicious. The garlic
bread appetizer is unmatched. Followed by some lamb kebabs served with fresh
vegetables and fried potato wedges. It may sound like a fast food option, but
it was delicious; and, the service laudable. If you are looking for more
sophistication, Ikbal would be the place. You really feel like you are in a Mediterranean
bistro. Same kind of style dining area, ambient light, and lightly surrounded
by vegetation, but this place is higher end so you will need to dress
accordingly. One bite of the prawn appetizer in a garlic herb sauce was enough
to know the place had great food. And, when they say fresh in Turkey they
really mean fresh. The veal steak — butchered daily; paired with the house
white wine — the perfect combination before an evening of nocturnal
activities.
 |
| Dining area inside Ikbal |
If you are looking
for a good time there are many places to choose from in Kaş. Rhythm and Beer
became one of my choice spots. This place offers live music six days a week. On
this Saturday night, a band in my favorit genre was up, a spectacular, authentic
reggae band. The sound of them playing their unique brand of music was an
immediate attraction for this . After listening to a few
songs from the street, I decided to go in and relax properly with a drink.
Unfortunately, the band took a break as soon as we walked in. But, like most
establishments in Kaş the staff was friendly and welcoming. They knew exactly
how to accommodate the laid back crowd and the wait was worth it! The songs
were as diverse as the drinks — it was everything from Bob Marley to the
Beatles, Vodka/Red Bulls to Tuborgs. As we drank and relaxed, the time got late
and we left somewhere around midnight in order to catch some club action at Red
Point. This place was for younger tourists as blue disco lights, house
music, and happy sun seekers from all over the world enjoyed some dancing and
drinking. Definitely the place if you are in your 20's looking for a nice club
atmosphere. However, keep in mind this is not a big city. So if you are looking
for a club similar to what you would find in LA or Ibiza, you will not find
that in Kaş. But remember, when in Rome do as the Romans. A
little chit-chat here; a little chit-chat there; with people from all over — Britain,
Denmark, even the small town I lived in; in Sweden (Västerås). Alas, it
was time to call it a night and say "Iyi geceler" to a sensational
day in one of Turkey’s hidden gems, Kaş.
 |
| Sunset by apartment |
Special thanks to the
Engler family, for making this dream come true!
